The GRAF Kilt

This kilt was made for a groom in Germany to pair with an existing jacket, waistcoat and shirt in his distinctive steampunk style. The groom wanted his kilt to reflect his bride’s gown which was black with a red detail, but create a kilt he could wear easily as part of his everyday wardrobe. The main body of the kilt uses two Holland and Sherry superfine worsted wools from their evening dress collection used for dinner suits, in a combination of self check and self stripe, combined with a heavier ribbed wool from Bute Fabrics and a black and red chevron cloth
in my end of rolls collection.

The kilt is pleated in a Kinguissie formation with very deep pleats that create weight, given the lightweight and very fine handle of this cloth. In addition, both the front apron and rear box pleat in the centre-back have slim curtain weights sewn in to the hem to mitigate any unwelcome exposure. A hidden detail that is seen when the kilt swings is the centre line of silk passimenterie usually used down the outer leg of a dinner suit.

The kilt is lined in hand-painted silk, illustrating a design motif that is significant to the bride and groom along with a commemoration of their wedding date.